From here, pieces "G", "F", & "E" will attach to "H" just as they are laid out (photo #3). Starting with the left door, attach the skinny half of piece "H" to the wider half (photo #2). Pieces "E", "F", "G", & "H" (in red) will form the left door, and pieces "I", "J", "K", & "L" (in blue) will form the right door. The eight (8) pieces highlighted in red and blue (photo #1) will form two separate components.
Setting aside the body for now, we'll start on the turret's doors.
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* Only for those who already know how to use the program PePaKuRa while it is a very useful tool, I will not be explaining its use in this guide. > OPTIONAL - PePaKuRa model file (.PDO) attached below * > Paper (I would recommend 16-20lbs (60-75gsm) paper, i.e. > Your preference of cutting implement (i.e. > The 2-page template (PDF) attached below While I will do my best to guide you through the assembly, parts of this model can be difficult for beginners namely the legs, which are the smallest and most intricate part. PLEASE NOTE, you do not actually need any of these programs to assemble the template in this instructable. BACKGROUNDįor those curious, this model was designed using several pieces of software, including student versions of 3D Studio Max and AutoCAD for the mesh, GIMP for the model’s skin, and PePaKuRa Designer to “unfold” it into the final template. They will be happy to help.It’s the lovable Sentry Turret from the hit PC/Xbox/PS3 game, Portal! Since its original release on my deviantArt page some time ago, I've received a number of requests for help/tutorials with this model, and in the spirit of the Make It Real challenge, I've decided to write up a concise guide to that end.
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Laser - able to print on all types of paper, can handle moisture, and can print at a higher resolution than ink, but can crack and flake off when scored/folded, and toner can be more expensive than ink.Ĭutting - a self-healing cutting mat is an essential tool along with an Xacto knife or similar brand with #11 blades, or a box cutter knife.
Inkjet - ink and printers are cheaper to replace than toner and laserjets, and the edges hold up well after scoring/folding, but it doesn't print on all paper types, the resolution may be lower, and any moisture (e.g. Thinner paper = less sturdy model, but easier to cut/fold/score. Thicker paper = more sturdy model, but harder to cut/fold/score. Paper - use paper that is heavier than regular printer paper (regular printer paper is ~20lb/ ~75gsm). What to use in general (refer to the sticky guide for more info): If you are looking for something specific in terms of tools, please mention your region. For models that you've found online or elsewhere.
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Did you build it? Then this flair is for you! If possible, please include the download link When posting something new, use the link flair after you've made your post: Please title your posts with detail of what your model actually is low-effort titles will be removed. A subreddit for the discussion and sharing of papercrafts and paper models.
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